// Preservation Guide //

How to scan old family photos without damaging them (DPI, glare, stuck glass)

Protect fragile prints while capturing enough detail for AI restoration. DPI table, phone pitfalls, glare fixes, stuck-glass rules, and a simple acceptance test before you spend credits.

1. Pre-Scan Physical Handling & Cleaning Protocol

The mathematical accuracy of your AI restoration depends directly on digital input clarity. However, chasing maximum resolution should never put fragile 100-year-old silver gelatin, albumin, or tintype prints at risk. Before feeding your scans into our tool to repair damaged vintage prints with AI, follow strict conservator handling rules:

Cleaning Scanner Glass vs. Cleaning Photos

Scanner Glass: Clean using a optical microfiber cloth and lens cleaner. Spray cleaner onto the cloth, never directly on scanner glass to prevent liquid seeping under the bezel.
Paper Prints: Lightly brush away loose dust with a soft camel-hair anti-static brush. Never use water, alcohol, or liquid wipes on photo paper—liquids swell the gelatin emulsion layer and destroy silverhalide particles.

Handling Brittle or Curled Paper

Brittle vintage prints often crack along paper fibers under heavy lid pressure. Never force curled prints flat using heavy books or high scanner cover force. Instead, allow prints to rest in a room with 40-50% relative humidity, or use a foam backing pad for gentle, uniform contact.

2. Recommended Scanner DPI & Format Specifications

Dots Per Inch (DPI) dictates pixel density. Selecting too low a DPI starves AI neural models of necessary facial landmark geometry (eyelashes, pupil boundaries, skin texture), while excessively high DPI on large prints only magnifies paper grain without adding real detail.

Original Print SizeTarget Output IntentRecommended DPIOutput DimensionsFile Format
Standard 4x6" Print1:1 Digital Archive Copy300 DPI1200 x 1800 pxJPG (High Quality)
Standard 4x6" PrintBest for AI Restoration600 DPI2400 x 3600 pxTIFF / PNG (Uncompressed)
Wallet Print (2x3")Enlargement & AI Repair600 – 1200 DPI1800 x 2700 px+TIFF (Uncompressed)
Tiny Locket Photo (1x1")Wall Frame Enlargement (8x10")1200 – 2400 DPI1200 x 1200 px+TIFF (Uncompressed)

3. Essential Scanner Software Settings

Default scanner software is designed for office documents, applying heavy contrast and sharpening that ruin photographic neural inputs.

Disable All Auto-Enhancement Filters

Turn OFF hardware settings such as Auto-Sharpen, Auto-Color Fix, and Descreening. Hardware sharpening creates harsh halo artifacts around eyes and hair that confuse deep learning facial models.

Always Scan in 24-Bit RGB Color

Even for black-and-white or sepia photographs, always scan in 24-bit RGB Color mode. Grayscale scanning discards subtle paper aging signals, handwritten back-of-photo ink notes, and shadow tonality that AI models use to infer facial depth. You can always use our tool to remove high-ISO film grain later.

4. Flatbed scanner vs smartphone copy setup

Flatbed scanner for loose prints

A flatbed gives even lighting and consistent alignment when a loose print fits fully on the glass and can lie flat without force.

  • Place the print face-down gently and keep the entire original inside the scanner bed.
  • Do not press a curled, brittle, or oversized print flat with the lid. Photograph it with a copy setup if closing the scanner could crease or crush it.

Smartphone copy setup

A phone can make a usable copy when it is held stable and parallel and the print is lit evenly. The result matters more than the phone model or camera label.

  • Use indirect daylight or two matching diffused lights. Avoid mixed light colours and direct reflections.
  • Hold phone strictly parallel to photo surface using a tripod or copy stand to eliminate perspective skew.
  • Use the sharpest optical camera available without digital zoom. Fill the frame, then turn off flash, portrait effects, and beauty filters.

5. Phone-scan failure checklist

A phone copy is usable only when the important detail is sharp, evenly lit, and square to the camera. Reshoot if any of these problems hides a face or damaged area you want restored:

  • Print not filling the frame (lots of table/background = fewer face pixels).
  • Perspective skew (phone not parallel → trapezoid print).
  • Uneven light or hard shadow across the face.
  • Visible glare hotspots on glossy paper.
  • Motion blur or focus on the table instead of emulsion.
  • Beauty mode / HDR ghosting / heavy JPEG recompression from messaging apps.
  • Finger over the edge or curved album page without holding flat safely.

6. Glare on prints and Newton rings on film

Glossy photographic prints

For a phone copy, turn off flash and place two matching diffused lights at roughly 45° on opposite sides. Keep the camera parallel. If a print cannot lie on scanner glass safely, do not add pressure or improvised spacers; photograph it instead.

Negatives, slides, and transparency film

Newton rings are a common film-scanning problem when curled transparency material contacts glass. Use the scanner's film holder and follow its orientation instructions. Some manufacturers recommend reversing the film orientation when rings appear. Anti-Newton-ring glass or fluid mounting belongs to a specialist film workflow, not routine print scanning.

Prints stuck to frame glass

Do not peel the photograph away. Photograph or scan through the existing glass if it can be done without disturbing the object, and consult a photograph conservator when separation matters.

Primary safety references: NARA digitizing family papers and FADGI technical guidelines. We are not a paper conservation lab—when in doubt, stop and consult a conservator.

7. Handling Photos Stuck to Glass & Sticky Albums

Photos Stuck to Frame Glass: Do NOT Peel

If a historic photograph has adhered to glass inside its frame over decades of humidity, do not attempt to peel it apart physically or apply a hairdryer. Forced separation tears the emulsion (the gelatin image layer) straight off the paper, causing permanent destruction.

Safe Workaround: Remove frame backing and matting so only glass + photo remain. Place the assembly glass-side down directly on your scanner glass, or photograph through glass using angled 45-degree side lighting.

1970s Magnetic "Sticky" Albums

Acidic yellowing adhesive in vintage magnetic albums hardens over time. Rather than peeling fragile paper, scan the entire album page at 600 DPI, or carefully un-clip page binders to lay pages flat on your scanner bed.

9. Physical storage & 3-2-1 digital backup

Physical Archival Storage

After scanning, store original prints in acid-free, lignin-free archival boxes and Mylar (polyethylene) transparent sleeves. Keep physical storage in living areas (30–50% relative humidity) away from damp basements or hot attics.

The Digital 3-2-1 Backup Rule

Maintain 3 total copies of your digitized master scans, across 2 different media types (e.g., local SSD + external hard drive), with 1 copy stored off-site in encrypted cloud storage.

8. “Good enough for AI restore” acceptance test

Only spend restore credits when the digital file passes this bar:

  1. File opens and is not corrupt (if not, use file repair—not BringBack).
  2. At 100% zoom, eyes and mouth edges are visible—not pure blur.
  3. No large white glare blob covering the face.
  4. Print fills most of the frame; faces for portraits ideally 200px+ tall when cropped.
  5. You kept a raw/high-quality master (TIFF/PNG or high-quality JPEG) plus a 3-2-1 backup plan.

Then restore (1 credit). For likeness-sensitive merges, also read source photos for likeness and metadata checklist.

Scan ready? Restore next

Only after the acceptance test above. Upload a clean scan to repair scratches, stains, and fade—then compare identity side by side.

Open restoration tool

Frequently asked questions

What DPI should I scan old photos for AI restoration?

For a standard 4×6" print intended for restoration or enlargement, 600 DPI is a practical target. A 300 DPI scan can be adequate for same-size viewing but records less facial and surface detail.

Can I scan with my phone instead of a flatbed?

Yes if the print fills the frame, lighting is even, and there is no glare. Use the phone failure checklist above.

What if the photo is stuck to the glass?

Do not peel. Scan or photograph through the glass with care, or consult a conservator for separation.

Will AI fix a bad scan?

AI can repair some damage but cannot invent true detail missing from a tiny, blurry, or glare-blown face. Rescan first when possible.

Category: Archival Photo Preservation